Today We Speak Woof got a little sassy ;o)
I’ll hear clients ask about when to correct their dog’s behaviour and with good training the answer is: you don’t have to. If you train your dog in stages, watching their body language for signs of stress or frustration, and have good timing, corrections aren’t necessary. My job is to help you stop reacting to your dog’s behaviour and train an alternate behaviour that is more desirable for them to default to instead. If you’re in the Hamilton/Binbrook/Stoney Creek (and surrounding) area and this sounds like a familiar story, sign up now to stop reacting & start building better behaviour with your dog!
When Sandy & I moved out of Toronto one of the hardest things to leave behind was our fantastic vet. Having worked in the vet industry in the past, this would be my first time looking for a vet without having worked there already!
On the advice of a friend Sandy & I booked an appointment with the Doctors at Nelson Animal Hospital in Burlington. Sandy & I have visited them twice and both times I’ve been thoroughly impressed. Sandy does not like sharing small spaces with other dogs which can make the waiting area of a vet’s office a tough place to hang out. But Nelson Animal Hospital was caring & happy to help us to make sure Sandy’s visit was as relaxed as possible.
If you have a reactive dog here are some tips to help make your vet visits successful:
- Let Staff Know: as you are booking the appointment inform the receptionist that your dog is reactive. Many offices will have a specific procedure they follow to make those dogs more comfortable including making a note on the file so all staff will be aware.
Ask If They Can Help: as soon as I told Nelson Animal Hospital that Sandy isn’t dog friendly, they offered me an alternate entrance so we wouldn’t have to run into any dogs. They actually had TWO entrances aside from the front door we could’ve chosen! One outside door led right into the exam room, and they also had a backdoor that could accommodate nervous, shy, or reactive dogs.
- Bring Treats: you want to make sure that every trip to the vet has the opportunity to be a positive one, no matter what possibly unpleasant procedures may need to be done. I bring 3 varieties of treats for Sandy – plain kibble to reward her for being calm as we’re waiting to be seen, a medium value training treat (such as Flying Hound) for the Staff to give her or in case she gets distracted/stressed, and then a high value treat such as small cut up hot dogs for being calm with other dogs in view or for after a difficult procedure like a blood draw.
- Brush Up On Your Dog’s Cues: how well does your dog respond to their name while distracted? Do they have a cue for eye contact/focus? If you have an upcoming vet visit now is the time to brush up on these behaviours. Whether your dog is fearful, reactive, gets overexcited at the vet’s or needs some help around the office’s cat!, it’s useful to have a cue to keep your dog focused. In preparation, take your dog’s eye contact cue to a variety of environments to practice performing the behaviour while distracted. For example, give the cue for eye contact in every room of your home, then take it to just outside the front door, on the sidewalk, in the park, and so on.
- Have A Solid ‘Go To Mat’: (*You may need a professional’s help with this) instead of allowing Sandy to pace around growing more & more anxious, I bring her mat along and she lays on it while waiting for the appointment to start. Make sure your dog already has a positive association with their mat so it’s a good thing when it comes out – ie: at home Sandy gets all of her bones & kongs on the mat, so when it comes out at the vet she is happy to see it. I don’t ‘command’ her to stay on it, she’s welcome to get up & sniff around, but if she starts getting too worked up I cue her back to her mat and reward her for relaxing. Here’s a fantastic video from Sarah Owings on mat work if you’re starting from the beginning.
- Tell Staff You’re There Before Bringing Your Dog In: I always quickly run in to inform staff Sandy & I have arrived without Sandy in tow. This allows me to scan the waiting area or get instructions from the staff if needed (ie: they can let me know they are behind & we can wait in the car or they are ready and we don’t have to wait at all!).
- Thank Your Staff!: without the help of the Receptionists, Vet Assistants, Vet Techs and Doctors, none of this would run as smoothly as it does. I make sure to take the time to thank everyone for the accommodations which allows Sandy to have a positive, low stress experience.
Sandy & I would like to thank all the staff at Nelson Animal Hospital for making our experience such a positive one!
The best opportunity for working your dog’s brain and keeping them busy is at their mealtime. You can coordinate their meals with your departure for the day to keep them occupied while you’re gone, or at times when you need your dog to be busy (ie: while you’re cooking dinner).
There have been many advances in food dispensing toys for dogs, from fancy electronic ones to the basics. Here’s a list for a variety of budgets:
- Foobler – at around $35 this is a very cool option for dogs who need to be kept busy
over a longer duration of time. It has 6 different pods to fill up with food, each pod can be released at a specific time with a bell indicating to your dog that food is available. For more information watch their youtube video
- Kong Wobbler – ranging from $20 to
$30 (depending on size) this widely available toy will slow your dog down if they tend to inhale their meals as well as keep them busy knocking the food out. Some dogs will finish food in the wobbler quickly, it won’t keep smart dogs busy long.
Wobble Ball by P.L.A.Y – around $24 this is not only an adorable food dispensing toy, but they also offer a guarantee that if the top is damaged by your dog they will replace it at no charge.
- West Paw’s Toppl – under $25 (depending on size) you can stuff these toys with food and freeze them as well as use them as kibble dispensers. Make sure you watch their video for some neat things you can do including combining two together for more of a challenge!
- Kongs toys – ranging from $15 to $30 depending on size/type and available at all pet supply stores, these are toys that can be stuffed with peanut butter, wet food, kibble, etc. The options are endless and there are great videos showing how to stuff them to keep your dog busy for as long as possible For best results freeze overnight!
- Nina Ottosson Toys – some of the original advanced enrichment toys for dogs, Nina Ottosson toys are found for a variety of prices and length of time they keep a dog busy will vary. There are puzzles that are fun for the occasional game, as once some dogs figure it out they can finish it quite quickly, versus toys that can be used for every meal. They are found more & more in pet shops, but you may have better luck finding them in dog boutiques or online versus box stores.
- Safemade makes toys for stuffing that you also can bake! They have some great recipes for what to do with their products.
- Planet Dog has a variety of durable toys that can be stuffed with food from $20 and up and they donate part of their profits to non-profit animal groups.
SAFETY NOTE: Never leave your dog alone with a food toy that is untested in case they chew a piece off. If you have a heavy chewer it’s ideal to only leave them alone with hard plastic food dispensing toys that they can’t fit in their mouth.
In a previous post I talked about Sandy & I’s current trick – walking through my legs and standing on my feet. We’ve made some nice progress and she’s targeting my actual foot now as I fade the physical targets. She’s much more focused, calm, and not adding in a bow from which I conclude she’s targeting with purpose as opposed to guessing, which you can see more of in the first video from the previous post. Our next step is getting both paws at the same time.
I always start this trick with my feet way too far apart, thinking my feet are so close together when in fact it’s quite a stretch for Sandy to reach both my feet at that distance. In order to get her to balance on both my feet I’m going to need to move my feet closer than I perceive is close. Maybe I’ll be a training nerd and measure the distance between them!!
You come home to an overturned garbage, a chewed coffee table, dishes knocked off the counter – and a dog who runs to greet you at the door. What happened while you were gone? You wonder, does my dog have separation anxiety?
This is one of the most common questions I get from owners. They will come home to destruction, or hear their dog barking, and wondering if their dog is panicking. This is not always true. Two scenarios could be at play here, a dog experiencing separation anxiety or a dog who is bored.
What’s the difference between Separation Anxiety and a bored dog?
Separation Anxiety will occur when a dog experiences panic while left alone. It is characterized by vocalization, peeing/pooing, pacing, panting, destruction (especially at points of human entry/exit). It can be associated with a single person (the dog panics every time that person leaves) or only when no one is home (the dog can be left with a human ‘sitter’ with no symptoms).
Boredom occurs when a dog is under-enriched. Maybe they are not receiving enough exercise, they are not using their brain enough, they have too much freedom in the house and therefore they choose their enrichment by exploring the garbage can, the laundry hamper, the kitchen counter….
How do you know for sure?
The best way to know what your dog is doing while being left alone is to videotape them. You can either setup a Go Pro type recorder, or angle your laptop so the webcam captures the main area they are left in and review the recording upon your return.
If your dog begins whining/howling/pacing as soon as you leave the house and the behaviour escalates over the course of the recording, you could have a dog with separation anxiety.
Instead, if your recording captured a calm dog exploring the garbage can with a wagging tail, you probably have a bored Fido.
Separation Anxiety will require the assistance of a certified dog trainer to help you get your dog more comfortable and confident with being left alone. You can begin by reading the book “I’ll Be Home Soon” by Dr Patricia McConnell for more information on the issue. There’s also Malena DeMartini-Price’s book “Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs” for an in depth look at the issue.
Boredom can be helped by looking at your dog’s daily routine and seeing where they can get more enrichment. Here are some quick ways to enrich your dog’s days:
- Change up your walking routine – go to a new park or new neighbourhood for them to sniff and explore. It doesn’t have to be fancy or far away, anywhere new is a new adventure for your dog!
- Feed your dog from a food dispensing toy – it allows your dog to use their brain and get a food reward for it.
- Structure times for training – pick a new trick to teach your dog and spend a few minutes every day working on it. You don’t need to dedicate huge sections of time to training, keep it short & sweet so it’s enjoyable for both of you. Kikopup has some great video tutorials for lots of tricks.
- Interactive play – don’t forget that dogs like to play with YOU. Games like fetch or tug (if your space is limited) can go a long way in tiring a dog out and having fun together at the same time.
Sandy loves learning tricks, she especially loves doing things with her paws
So I figured we’d work on the trick lots of trainers do – walk through my legs & target paws to my feet.
To my surprise, she struggled with this, specifically using both paws at the same time. I conferred with my excellent trick-training friends: Julie of Cat School and Lauren of Lauren’s Leash for some ideas.
(Here’s a photo of Lauren doing this trick with her dog Grayson when I visited them in NYC!)
Through discussion with them, I got Sandy targeting two yogurt lids side by side, then moved them to between my legs. Eventually I will get them further and further apart, but not until it’s clear she is targeting them simultaneously. The video below is our latest progress. She’s also added in a superstitious behaviour – can you see it in the video below?
I know that moving can be stressful for dogs, my dog Sandy being firmly in that category. She is a dog who likes her routine and can get stressed by changes in the environment. So upon moving to our new home in Hamilton I worked on leaving her alone for short time frames and every time I came back she was calm & relaxed, no signs of anxiety.
Phew. Or so I thought.
The first morning I had to leave her for a few hours I got a call from my landlord that Sandy was barking. If you’ve ever gotten a call or had a note left about your dog’s behaviour you know what it feels like: your stomach drops, your face flushes with embarrassment, maybe you even get frustrated or angry that this is happening, why is my dog behaving like this!
That’s the very question I asked myself: why was my dog behaving like this! Sandy had never experienced separation anxiety prior to this and I was shocked to get the phone call. But then I started piecing together some issues in the past year that I had ignored.
As a dog trainer I’ve worked to be carefully attuned to signs of stress and anxiety in dogs I work with and yet, when it came to my own dog, I had explained away those same subtle signs I would’ve brought to the attention of a client. Before moving, while still in Toronto, some days I came home to Sandy panic barking. It was a bark I had never heard from her before.
If a client had come to me with that situation I would’ve recommended to record the dog while the client was out to see exactly what was going on. Without video, you can only speculate about your dog’s emotional state while you aren’t there.
Instead, I attributed her behaviour to needing to go to the bathroom, a change in our schedule, or maybe she had heard a strange noise. Now, after the phone call from my landlord, I saw that those were signs that she had been coping with increased anxiety. I had ignored them, which resulted in separation anxiety when the BIG change of our new home came.
I put together a training plan for Sandy that included her never being left alone in unfamiliar places, I was lucky to have family close that could look after her when I had to be out of the house, and I chose to put her on medication in order to get us to our end goal quicker.
Sandy is now weaned off the medication, she can be left alone for as long as needed with no anxiety and we have a reliable routine, which she loves. She actually wants me to hurry up and leave the house so she can get her stuffed kongs!
Here is some footage of the first trial of Sandy being left alone during our training plan. (Sorry for the camera angle, it tipped a little too far to the side!)
Note that initially she is alert, focused on the point of exit, but no vocalization or excessive pacing. She’s clearly not comfortable being left alone yet. Compare that to the second half of the video after she has worked through separation anxiety protocol.
If your dog has a behavioural change, don’t be ready with a quick answer to dismiss it.
If I had taken the time to consider why Sandy was behaving differently at our home in Toronto, it would’ve saved me the extra work when the additional stressor of the move occurred.
While We Speak Woof services Burlington, Waterdown, Dundas, Stoney Creek & Ancaster, Hamilton is where I call home (and offer services there too of course!).
Sandy & I moved out to Hamilton from Toronto in September of 2016. There I had spent 4 years teaching classes & providing private lessons with the fantastic people of When Hounds Fly.
Now, Sandy & I explore the streets of Hamilton.
We love it here and have lots of fun taking pictures in and around our hood.
I’m excited to continue exploring the city with Sandy while helping the people of Hamilton with their dogs!